This one’s pretty cool.
Locked within this bottle is the mother vine of Godello. Meaning, ailment Carole Meredith of UC Davis and Luis Gutierrez of University of Madrid have traced the genetic origins of Godello back to this single “Pezas” (plot) of Godello in Valdeorras, Spain.
That Pezas sits in the Valdesil family’s vineyard, which is now 100 years old, planted via massale selection. Massale is a selection whereby the mother vine’s canes are planted in the ground in order to start a new vine. Once the new vine grows roots, the cane is severed. Tracing these vines, canes, and cuttings back, Meredith and Gutierrez have found the mother of Godello.
Imagine finding “THE” clone of Cabernet. It would be a reference point for all future drinking – Cabernet and beyond.
Of course, this is Godello, an obscure Spanish white wine variety. And yet, this is Godello: compelling, regal, supreme, and delicious. And therefore, even beyond its heritage, deserves our attention. Here is my tasting note:
The nose is an intricate mixture of wet limestone , cranberry , salt water, roasted chicken. It strongly, on the nose, reminds me of Le Clos Chablis, yet the palate has so much texture that it has the breadth of a decade old Chablis. And the back palate is tense with structure. In this fashion Godello, or at least very-old-vine-mother-clone Godello, drinks like a red wine, with years of enjoyment for the cellar.
It made me want to eat, so I ate. I grilled shrimp with lemon and garlic, it was gorgeous. I grilled chicken with smoked paprika, cured sweet peppers and sausage, it was magnificent. I ate salad with salt cured lemons and jumbo lump crab, and it was smashing. I finished with Manchego and quince and Godello. And then I opened another bottle and started writing this email.
I offer it now, right when Wisconsin is heading towards winter, because this is a winter white wine. Don’t chill it, don’t serve it with “light fish and cream sauces”. This is noble, massive, texturally dense wine, pure and straight from the source. If it was called Chablis it would be five times this price.
But no matter what you do, try a bottle or two. There isn’t allot in Wisconsin, its exclusive to Waterford, and you’ll love it.
2010 Valdesil Pezas da Portela Godello
Please contact us regarding pricing and availability: firstname.lastname@example.org or 414-289-9463