A rise and fall in quality, price and reputation.
But through these last fifty years a few producers have never changed. Domaine Cheveau is one such producer and they deserve our attention.
The Domaine was founded in 1950 by Michel Cheveau. Michel saw the rise of Pouilly Fuisse from a small backwater village to being deservedly famous for producing Chardonnays of rich and full proportions.
But his son, and now grandsons, have seen the backside. With fame came a rise in prices, and with a rise in prices came commercial negociants who were only interested in profiting off the name – not producing quality. Raising yields through chemicals and machine harvesting while concomitantly raising prices as far as the market will bear, these negociants now make lots of money off of woefully inferior Pouilly Fuisse.
But Domaine Cheveau did not follow this path. Michel instilled within his family a love of the land through reasoned agriculture, a connection between the quality of the fruit and the quality of the finished wine, and the worthiness of doing the small things well: hand crafting stunning wine from the lands your family loves – even if it won’t make you famous or wealthy like the big boys.
This is Domaine Cheveau’s Macon Soultre-Pouilly Fuisse Sur Le Mont. And it is intensely excellent:
Aromas of ambrosia and casaba melons, vanilla and chestnut with exotic spices fill the glass. The palate is full, rounded and rich, yet with also with drive and energy, broadcasting flavors to the front, middle and back of the palate, resounding with a citron-esque liquid minerality that lasts for minutes. Don’t chill it – let the richness resound fully and expressively at almost red wine temperatures. You will be greatly rewarded.
The other thing Michel passed down was the belief in creating friendships instead of senseless profiteering. The family’s prices have always been reasonable. Now, quite frankly, this wine is a steal.
2011 Domaine Cheveau Macon Solutre Pouilly “Sure Le Mont”
Please contact us regarding pricing and availability: firstname.lastname@example.org or 414-289-9463.