41 years ago, find five Champagne farmers sat down around a table.
They each brought one bottle of their own Champagne. One bottle that “went a step higher.” A Champagne “that took a good wine in a good region and made something much more difficult – an excellent wine”.
Maybe small words, discount but their words… with vast potential.
They named their group the “Special Club” (I am told this sounds more sophisticated in French) and they banded together to create the first “special club champagne”. This Special Club Champagne, picked by the group, is not only a cut above all the others, but was utterly exceptional and singular, never to be repeated.
Take a step back and think about this in terms of your own profession. Who is your hardest critic? Yourself. Who is your second hardest critic? A jury of your peers. The Special Club Champagnes are the absolute best of the best in small-farmer Champagne.
The special club is now forty Champagne farmers strong. They get together yearly, evaluate peer to peer (by style and region), and choose only that which is excellent.
I have three Special Clubs for sale today. All are from the American importer Terry Theise, and I will quote him for the tasting notes:
2008 Marc Hébrart “Special Club” Brut
“The single best young wine I tasted in Champagne this year, and as good as it gets.
“Disgorged November 2012, the blend is the same as the above `07-vintage, but this is of another order, and shows 2008 at its most sublime. Lunar, mystic aromas, it’s why the vintage is so exquisite and potentially great. And no mistake— this is great wine that has everything, plus the dancing animation of all its hundred elements; Champagne at its most bewitching, all leading to a truly astonishing and endless finish that defines complexity and beauty.”
2008 Moussé Fils “Spécial Club”
“Several years ago Didier Gimonnet told me there would be a new member of the Club Tresors (of which he was then president) who would provide the very first Spécial Club bottling entirely from Meunier. He added that the guy was still below-the-radar but definitely an up and comer, a super-nice man, young and ambitious.
“So I made a beeline. And all of it was true. I had long been aware of the Meunier-Rennaissance taking place way up-valley in the Marne, in all the terra incognita near Château Thierry, an ad-hoc group of growers who’d rediscovered their old vineyards and wanted to give Meunier the respect it almost never got.
“When I whimpered pitiably, I mean dude I made a total poodle of myself, begging for table scraps, he [Cederic Mousse] relented and let me have some. A little. This is his 110 year old Meunier wine, never to be done again; disgorged January 2013, the palate is just wonderful, charming, fine-grained, cool and silky. He says it’s rare to get such ripe Meunier in Cuisles. The wine is piquant, elegant, fine-boned and delicious.”
2008 A. Margaine “Special Club”
“This is completely stunning Champagne.
“From three parcels: Brocot, Montmedy and Champs d’Enfer. 25% was done in wood, and 100% went through malo. Disgorged Jan. 2013. The reputation of `08 will be made with the first sniff of a Champagne like this. An extraordinarily feminine fine-grained wine, cool but not aloof, intense but contained, embedded chalkiness like the dust from a rockslide in the finish; ginger and Asian pear, and a texture like meringue, in a hauntingly pretty form, lyric and lingering.”
The Special Club: the best producers in Champagne choosing only the best amongst themselves. I have spent years tracking down these Special Club Champagnes. Please don’t miss them.
Contact us regarding pricing and availability: