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Posts Tagged ‘Barbera’

Marchesi Barbera, Barbaresco & Moscato: An Italian Easter Feast!

In Barbaresco, Barbera, Drinking, Moscato, Special Offers on April 22, 2011 at 4:38 pm

Dottore Alberto “The Silver Fox” Marchesi di Gresy is a man who knows how to take lunch.  And he takes lunch seriously, stuff especially for Easter. 

Not only does Easter have supreme religious significance for one of the most stalwart Catholic segments of Italy, sovaldi sale but it also typically falls at flowering.  Flowering is the exceptional moment when a vineyard bursts into life, displaying successful pollination by the formation of tiny wedding-bell-white flowers pushing out from the vines.  Without flowering there is no wine.  And without wine, there can be no lunch.  And without wine and lunch, can there really be Easter?

In Piedmont, this would be una tragedia significativo, nearly a sin, and to be avoided at all costs.  You see, where Marchesi is from, life moves a little differently: Italians work in order to live, and there is no better living than an expeditious, four to six hour meal in the middle of the day.  This year celebrate Easter the way Italians do, with a feast of momentous proportions.        

You will, of course, need wine.  And lots of it.  For not only does wine symbolize life in Piedmont but also makes the extended time of forced-family-fun we Americans call Easter brunch so much better.      

But first – just after you have put on your derbies, cravat and fob, but before you go to Church – mix yourself up a Waterford Manhattan: http://www.waterfordwine.com/2011/04/15/taking-manhattan-the-waterford-manhattan-cocktail/.  Not only will you find your powers of concentration and endurance highly elevated but also your capacity for ecumenical charity and commonweal.  Your generosity is as beautiful as the flowering in Piedmont; let it flow like an April snow showers in Wisconsin.  And go ahead and make yourself another Manhattan.  The Silver Fox would approve. 

Back to the wine: 

Teaching that there is an order and structure to a properly done six hour lunch, the good Dottore starts with Barbera: “this is my father’s wine.  He made five, sometimes ten barrels to drink in the vineyards.  In Barbaresco, the crus [vineyards] are steep and work is all done by hand.  Once out in the vineyard papa wouldn’t want to return, so every day he would take a loaf of my mother’s focaccia, a slice of salami, and two bottles of Barbera into the hills.”

“This is fresh wine and we drink it in his spirit: it is made to be shared, it is made to make us happy.  Sometimes wine should be a great accompaniment to the occasion, sustaining the conversation without interrupting it; a quiet harmony to the grand melody of a good lunch.”

Marchesi’s Barbera is indeed fresh, with aromas of strawberries, orange zest and touches of rosemary and mint.  The palate is all Piedmont, dominated by flavors of Bing cherries.  Its vibrant acidity pleases the palate, refreshingly elegant and stimulating.  Consume it in great quantities, for it pairs with any Italian food and tastes even better on the third bottle. 

While the Barbera may be a wine for sharing, The Silver Fox’s Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros is not.  This is a wine to hide in the kitchen, away from other guests, and share with just the chosen few.  Camp Gros is single cru within Martinenga vineyard.  Made entirely of Nebbiolo, it portrays the essence of roses, seduces with aromas of black truffles, gracefully dances across the palate with arenaceous taninns yet also stops you dead in your tracks in order to admire its beauty.  This wine’s harmony, elegance and finesse showcase why Barbaresco is known as one of Italy’s greatest wines.  Drink just one bottle this Easter, and for every Easter thereafter for the next three decades.   

And finally, a Moscato.    Frizzante and just a kiss dolce, Alberto notes, “it makes you feel ten pounds lighter, which is why all Barolo and Barbaresco producers make a Moscato.”  As charming and full of life as a vineyard in bloom, no Italian feast is complete without Moscato’s sweetly caressing grazie.

Dottore Alberto Marchesi di Gresy takes his lunch seriously, and this Easter, so should you.

2007 Marchesi di Gresy Barbera               

Suggested List Price:  $19.99

Special price via this email:  $14.99

2004 Marchesi di Gresy Barbaresco Martinenga Camp Gros      

Suggested List Price:  $96.99

Special price via this email:  $59.99

94 points Robert Parker, 39% below national retail average, available exclusively at Waterford Wine Company.*

2010 Marchesi di Gresy Moscato La Serra    

Suggested List Price:  $15.99

Special price via this email:  $13.99

Now, for your delectation, the feast!

Leek Gratin with Black Truffles

http://www.waterfordwine.com/2011/04/19/leek-gratin-with-black-truffles/

Shaved Asparagus and Parmesan in a Balsamic Vinaigrette

http://www.waterfordwine.com/2011/04/19/shaved-asparagus-and-parmesan-in-balsamic-vinaigrette/

Spring Vegetable Lasagna with Artichokes

http://www.waterfordwine.com/2011/04/19/spring-vegetable-lasagna-with-artichokes/

Mache and Golden Beet Salad with Citrus Vinaigrette

http://www.waterfordwine.com/2011/04/19/mache-and-golden-beet-salad-with-citrus-vinaigrette/

Duo of Lamb: Loin and Shank with Cannellini and Porcini in a Reduction Sauce with Mint Pesto

http://www.waterfordwine.com/2011/04/19/duo-of-lamb-loin-and-shank-with-cannellini-beans-and-porcini-mushrooms-in-a-reduction-sauce-with-mint-pesto/

We will taste these wines Friday and Saturday.

All orders must be secured with a name, credit card number, and phone number.  All orders will be available at the time of purchase.  Half case (5%) and full case discounts (10%) do apply to this special offer.

When the wine is ordered your credit card will be charged.  The wine will be held in climate controlled conditions until you are ready to pick it up, free of charge.  Offer is good while supplies last.

* National retail average is a composite of two numbers.  First, the average price of all listed wines on Wine Searcher.com.  Second, the average price of community holdings present for this vintage on CellarTracker.com.

Tim Hansen (among others) edited the body of this piece.  Eva Christiansen (among others) edited the recipes.

Pancetta and sage crusted turkey

In Eating, Turkey on November 9, 2010 at 1:46 am

Not for the faint of heart this recipe is decidedly high calorie.  But at Thanksgiving – the only time most of us eat turkey – is there any real chance of avoiding the calories?

I specifically created this dish for Sesti Monteleccio, cheap the gamey, sweet, sudoric notes of the pancetta; the earthy, loamy and slightly minty twinge of the sage combining with the high toned arenaceous cherry of the Montalcino.  The turkey (as long as it’s not over cooked) giving a sweet juiciness to the palate cleansing tannins of the Sesti. 

Wine pairing 

I think Brunello makes this dish come alive.  I could see Sangiovese making do, but Barolo or Barbaresco would probably be my second choice.  Traditionally styled Barbera’s would fit, and “claret” Zinfandels, like Ridge Geyserville or Nalle would brighten the fruit tones.   

Ingredients

1 – 20 lb.                                 Turkey, defrosted if from frozen

2 lbs.                                        Pancetta (yes two pounds), sliced

2 packages (2/3 oz)               sage, chopped

4 heads                                    garlic

3                                              lemons, quartered

4                                              onions, quartered

To taste                                    salt

To taste                                    black pepper

Method

1.  Preheat the oven to 325 degrees.  Remove the turkey from the fridge.

2.  Using your hands work them under the turkey’s skin, beginning at the back of the breast.  Work slowly so as not to tear the skin.  If you do tear the skin don’t worry – this turkey is still going to taste good.  Work your hands as far up the turkey breast as possible, lifting the skin slightly as you go. Rotating the turkey and do the same procedure working from the neck down, gently lifting up the skin as you go. 

3.  Place the sage in a bowl.  Pick up one piece of pancetta and “dip” it into the sage.  Quite a bit of sage should stick the piece.  If it is heavily coated brush some off – you want enough sage on each piece to evenly season the bird.  Lifting up the turkey’s skin move the pancetta onto the middle of the bird’s breast, again, underneath the skin.  Continue with a second piece placing it slightly overlapping position on the breast.  Continue until both breasts are covered with pancetta.  Salt and pepper the breasts.

4.  Gently open up the turkey’s cavity (remove the innards if there are any) and salt and pepper the inside of the bird.  Stuff the bird with all the remaining pancetta, sage, lemons, garlic and onions.  Gently rotate the bird to a roasting pan, breasts facing down. 

5.  Roast the turkey until the legs are golden brown.  Estimate what golden brown is (probably two hours).  Go with your instincts – the turkey is a very forgiving bird. 

6.  Using a pair of oven mitts (we here at Waterford actually only ever use pink colored dish washing gloves to complete this step, but to each their own), pull the turkey out of the oven.  Rotate the turkey breast side up.  Place it back in the oven.

7.  Roast the turkey until the breasts are golden brown.  Probably another hour and a half.  Remove the turkey from the oven and check its temperature with a thermometer by inserting into the meat between the leg and thigh.  If it reads 145 you are done.  If lower stick the turkey back in.  If higher you are definitely done – plan on making a sauce (see note just below). 

8.  Let the turkey rest for 30 minutes at least.  Carve and serve!

The note:

You don’t want to serve a turkey straight out of the oven.  You need to let it rest, for a couple of reasons. 

Turkeys of this magnitude will climb at least 10 degrees after being removed from the oven.  Therefore, if you “oven” cook this turkey all the way to 165 degrees it will be 180 by the time it hits the table – overcooked and dry.  By removing the turkey from the oven “early” you essentially finish the cooking internally, allowing the turkey’s juices to flow back into the meat – yielding a more succulent turkey.         

The ultimate goal in turkey cookery is roughly 165 degrees and it really doesn’t matter how you achieve that – you don’t need to hit a bull’s eye.  If you pull the turkey out, let it sit 20 minutes and it hasn’t hit 165, just put it back in the oven.  If you pull the turkey out, it hits 165, and then starts to cool, put it back in the oven to warm when the guest are about to sit down at the table.  The latter is my preferred method of cooking and always makes the meal that much easier.  Enjoy!